Drinking Responsibly : Tequila y Mezcal
Before we get into it, I want to mention that I have met so many people who despise tequila because they once had a shot of low-quality tequila at a college bar and the next thing they knew they were standing on a stool singing Crazy In Love to a mortified bartender. I’m not going to pretend like I don’t get it at all, I find that low-quality tequila can have a particularly harsh flavor, and it’s also a spirit that I find gives me a little rush of energy (no idea why). That being said, like any spirit, good-quality tequila (and mezcal) can offer such an incredible palette of flavors, and should be regarded with as much respect as things like good-quality whiskey/rum/vodka/gin!
What is it?
Tequila and mezcal are made from the fermented and distilled juice of the agave plant. One of the main things that distinguishes tequila from mezcal is that, traditionally, tequila is made from only blue agave, while mezcal can be made from up to 30 different varieties of agave. There are other distinctions, but we’ll touch on those later!
A Very Brief History
Both tequila and mezcal originate from Mexico in the 16th century. The drink originated as an non-distilled, fermented beverage called “Pulque”. However, when European colonizers arrived, they quickly ran out of the distilled spirits they had brought with them and looked to find new ways to produce alcohol while in Mexico. Building on the practices and traditions that created pulque, they distilled pulque and created an early version of what we now call tequila and mezcal.
Where does it come from?
Tequila is made with agave almost exclusively sourced from a variety of regions in central-western Mexico. To be more specific, the majority of this production happens in a region called Jalisco, however, it’s worth mentioning that tequila derives its name from the town of Tequila, an early production site.
Mezcal, as a result of both tradition and the larger variety of acceptable agave species, is grown in a wider variety of locations around Mexico, however, the region of Oaxaca is where the vast majority of production occurs.
How it’s made
As we previously mentioned, tequila is made exclusively from blue agave, while mezcal can be made from up to 30 different agave species. These plants are tended and harvested by farmers called “jimadores,” who have extensive and intimate knowledge about these plants, how they grow, and when they need to be harvested. The agave plant typically takes 7-15 years to mature, and needs to be harvested at the perfect time (this is just as its fully ripened, but before it flowers and dies).
The agave plant is harvested by removing the large leaves from the “piña” (the succulent core), which can weigh between 150 and 250 pounds.
If it’s tequila, this core is then baked in large ovens, then shredded and/or mashed to extract the juices within. If it’s mezcal, the core is baked and smoked in large earthen-pits (mezcal gets its name from the word “mexcalli”, meaning oven-cooked agave). The pulp that is left behind can be repurposed for outside use (we’ll talk about that later), or reintroduced in very small amounts to the juices during fermentation (this can amplify the agave flavor). This fermentation occurs in large wooden or stainless steel vats, and then is distilled twice to create the final product.
If the tequila is bottled directly after distillation, it’s called “blanco” or “silver” (due to its clear color). If it is aged for 2 months to 1 year in a wooden barrel, it is called “reposado”, and if it’s aged for 1 year or more it is called “anejo”. These distinctions are different from what classifies “gold” tequila, which has nothing to do with aging, but rather signifies the addition of a dark grain alcohol to the final product.
For mezcal, if it’s bottled un-aged it’s called “joven”, however it’s typically aged (sometimes as long as 12 years!), in which case the names “reposado” and “anejo” apply. Similarly to “golden” tequila, “dorado” mezcal doesn’t refer to an aging process, but rather to a coloring agent added to the finished product.
A bottle of mezcal with a traditional cup from Oaxaca
How it’s enjoyed
If you’re drinking tequila or mezcal at home, it’s recommended that it is kept out of sunlight, tightly sealed, and stored at a temperature of 65º or less.
If you’re choosing what kind of tequila you’d like to drink (from a flavor standpoint), here are some basic rules of thumb, though every tequila is different!
Silver/Blanco typically has a bolder flavor, more akin to the agave it came from, thus it’s typically brighter and crisper, with fresh, floral, and fruity notes
Anejo/Reposado typically has a more subdued flavor, is often smoother, and typically has flavors imparted from the wood barrels it was aged in (such as oak, vanilla, and a light smokiness).
If the agave used was sourced from the highlands, the tequila will often be sweeter in both aroma and flavor, whereas if it was sourced from the lowlands, the flavor and aroma will often be more herbaceous
These same guidelines apply to Mezcal, however, Mezcal is known for its intense smoky flavors, so these will most definitely be present in any variation you choose.
If you want to help, other than asking someone, you can check out websites like www.tequilamatchmaker.com to get an insight into the flavor profiles of tequilas you might be interested in!
Ok so you finally have your tequila/mezcal, congratulations! I will find any excuse to celebrate with tequila and/or mezcal, and finding the right bottle is reason enough.
If you’re drinking Mezcal, I would seriously encourage you to drink it straight up. I really don’t even think you need to chill it (although that is always nice), because the flavors are typically quite smooth, and with all of the complexity of mezcal, more of the flavors and aromas come across when it is served at room temperature (this is true for all alcohols, though it doesn’t always work to their advantage). In terms of drinking it “straight up”, I would encourage you to sip it like a whiskey as opposed to shooting it. Give it a try! Traditionally this may be enjoyed with salt, lime, lemon, or ground chili peppers on the side.
All of this being said, you will find cocktails with mezcal in them. Capitalizing on the intense smoky flavor and aroma of mezcal can make for some seriously complex and creative cocktails! I’m just a mezcal purist at heart.
If you’re drinking Tequila, the world is your oyster. If you want to go the traditional route and enjoy the complex flavors within, like mezcal, it can be enjoyed at room temperature, and sipped on with no garnishes. Another traditional way to enjoy it is with a side of “sangrita” (a sweet and sour and spicy drink made with orange juice, grenadine, and hot chili powder), which you would take a sip of after each sip of tequila.
Outside of Mexico, it is common for people to take shots of tequila with salt and lime (where you lick a small amount of salt, take the shot, then suck on a wedge of lime). The salt mellows out the bold tequila flavors, and the lime eliminates any after-taste of tequila and replaces it with an intensely acidic tang. This customs varies depending on where you are in the world. Germany, for example, replaced salt with cinnamon, and lime with orange.
Personally, I enjoy tequila best when its chilled and served with no garnish, but again, that’s me the purist.
Tequila is commonly found in a huge variety of cocktails such as Margaritas, Palomas, Martinis, “Tequila Sunrise”, “Matador”, and Mojitos!
Avenues for Sustainability
The traditional production processes of tequila and mezcal are widely recognized as “sustainable”, however commercialization and globalization has driven many producers to cut corners in their production processes and practice very unsustainable production techniques. Fortunately, regulatory bodies have recently stepped in to try and counteract this trend. Tequila’s primary regulatory body, “Consejo Regulador del Tequila”, has announced a variety of measures aimed toward improving the state of the tequila industry, in the context of environmental, social, and economic sustainability. These measures include:
Reducing waste by converting remnant liquids into biogas to power a variety of machines
Reducing waste by utilizing the leftover pulp in a variety of creative ways. This is traditionally repurposed as compost, animal feed, fuel, and even paper. However, modern technologies have allowed the scope of this repurposing to be vastly expanded, as producers are now finding ways to use the pulp to reduce our plastic-dependency, converting the pulp into biodegradable drinking straws, surfboards, building bricks, and even car parts!
Reducing water usage, which largely involves companies treating their own wastewater and finding ways to reuse it.
However, as is the case with so many products, change can come by choosing to support sustainable producers. There are a variety of tequila producers like Patron, Casa Noble, and Tequila Cazadores who are paving the way for large-scale, sustainably produced tequila. These producers not only practice sustainable agriculture, sustainable production techniques, and waste-reduction throughout all of these processes, but also support their workers and communities. The same applies to Mezcal producers like Del Maguey, Mezcales de Leyenda, Montelobos, El Jolgorio, and Sombra.
As always, we encourage you to do your own research. Look up companies before purchasing their products, learn how they produce and how they treat their workers!