Michelin Stars & Sustainability
A spread of food at Indigo in Washington, DC.
Michelin Stars are a widely accepted standard of quality for restaurants around the world. Even without knowing much about restaurants, most consumers know a Michelin Star means a restaurant is of considerably high quality and worth seeking out. I recently found myself exploring my new neighborhood in Washington, DC and friends raved about the amazing Indian food around the corner at Indigo, one of them mentioning “oh! They even have a Michelin Star!” I quickly made plans to go the next weekend, worried that I would have trouble getting in without a reservation. When I finally arrived I was expecting something fancy. Instead I found myself on an outdoor patio, ordering from a QR code, and served dishes in paper containers from a plastic tray. Now let’s be clear, this is the best Indian food I have ever had in the United States, but the experience made me realize that my perception of what it meant to have a Michelin Star was totally off, and in reality, I had no idea what it actually meant to get one!
If you’ve noticed that “Michelin” shares the same name as the tire company, it’s because both companies are one and the same! Interestingly, the history of Michelin stars has little to do with culinary finesse and more to do with creating a demand for tire sales! The first Michelin Guide was compiled in 1900 by Michelin Tire founders who were trying to create demand for automobiles and the tires they manufactured by offering suggested stops for restaurants, hotels, and gas stations along popular routes. After a few iterations throughout World War II, the guide was revamped and the first Michelin star ratings were given in 1926. All of the rated restaurants were initially just in France (as Michelin is a french company) and were awarded a single star if they were deemed a “fine dining establishment.” In 1931, the rating system was expanded to become the Michelin three-star rating that it continues to be today, and over time, has expanded further to cover the furthest reaches of the culinary world.
Michelin Stars are given by anonymous reviewers hired by Michelin, which makes them different from restaurant reviews in newspapers who are not anonymous. Unlike our normal 4 or 5 star rating which span from “poor” to “Exceptional”, even just one Michelin star is an incredible achievement, and notably, the system still relies on language around whether a restaurant is “worth the drive” or not:
1 Star: A very good restaurant in its category.
2 Stars: Excellent cooking, worth a detour.
3 Stars: Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.
The Michelin system continues to evolve over time and in 1997, the Bib Gourmand award was founded to point out ‘good quality, good value restaurants’ using a price limit that varies from country to country, depending on the cost of living. That being said, there are still affordable Michelin star restaurants — like Indigo in my neighborhood! — that are just that good. From food stands in Singapore to fine dining in Paris, Michelin stars are used to communicate high standards to eaters of all kinds.
In 2020, to reflect the growing interest in sustainability, Michelin introduced the Green Clover which can accompany a Michelin star. This helps communicate to consumers which restaurants in the Michelin Guide also meet a high level of sustainability goals. Outside of Michelin, but within the realm of sustainability, there are also additional sustainability ratings for restaurants not on the Michelin guide which can allow customers to navigate through restaurants with sustainability in mind.
Restaurant culture is often at the cutting edge of how our world interacts with food and food systems, which means for example, in the present day, the most forward thinking restaurants are pushing the envelope for what it can mean to prioritize sustainability right along with flavor and hospitality. When high quality restaurants develop relationships with farmers and producers that are prioritizing sustainability, they’re not only helping our planet, but also helping to push our food system forward on sustainable issues, while also showcasing that balancing flavor and sustainability doesn’t have to be a zero-sum game! And, just as affordable clothes often follow trends paved by high fashion, everyday restaurants often follow the practices pioneered by their more innovative counterparts. While greenwashing is an inevitability, even within most prestigious establishments, it’s heartening that a rising marker of culinary excellence is sustainability.
Read about Michelin’s ranking of the most sustainable restaurants in the US in 2022.
Find sustainable restaurants near you with the EatWellGuide.
